How to clean and re-wax a waxed jacket

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A waxed jacket is one of the toughest coats you can own, but it does not look after itself. The cotton fabric is coated in wax, and that coating is what keeps the rain out. Over time it wears thin along the creases, at the cuffs and around the pockets, and dirt and grease from daily use can clog the surface. A little regular care keeps the jacket weatherproof, and it will reward you with many years of use.

Never put a waxed jacket in the washing machine, and do not use detergent or hot water. Both strip the wax and leave the fabric dry and patchy. Instead, brush off dried mud with a soft brush, then wipe the jacket down with a clean cloth and lukewarm water. For stubborn marks, use a sponge and plain water, working gently in small circles. Then hang it up to dry naturally, well away from a radiator or fire.

Re-waxing the jacket

Once the jacket is clean and completely dry, look for dull or pale patches, particularly on the shoulders, elbows and cuffs. These show where the wax has thinned. Re-waxing is done with a tin of wax dressing made for the purpose. Warm the tin gently by standing it in a bowl of warm water, so that the wax softens. Work in a well-ventilated room and lay old newspaper on the floor to catch any drips.

Rub the wax on thinly with a soft cloth, concentrating on the worn areas and the seams. Do not apply too much, because a thick layer feels sticky and can attract dirt. When you have finished, leave the jacket hanging in a warm room overnight, so that the wax can soak into the fabric evenly. A hairdryer on a low setting can help to smooth out patches, if you use it carefully and at a distance.

Store the jacket on a wide hanger in a cool, airy cupboard, never squashed into a bag. Waxed cotton can turn sticky in hot rooms, so keep it away from radiators. In summer, check that no moths or damp have found their way in. Treat the jacket once or twice a year, according to how much you wear it, and it should stay reliable through every wet walk.